My trip to Spain’s wine regions of Ribera del Duero and Rueda may be the most amazing wine, food and cultural experience I’ve ever been on! From the first winery in Ribera del Duero to the last winery in Rueda, it was a total immersion into the world of winemaking with the producers from each region as they produce some of the most amazing wines based on Tempranillo and Verdejo. From touring the vineyards to wine tasting in underground cellars and modern tasting rooms – dining in an underground cellar to an unbelievable tapas dinner, they all had cuisine that keeps you wanting more! The Medieval castles and churches, history, culture and architecture were simply amazing. Without a doubt this was an unforgettable trip of a lifetime! Trip to Spain Photo Gallery
The experience began in Ribera del Duero about 2 hours north of Madrid in the country’s northern plateau in the area of Castilla y Leon, and as the name suggests, follows the Duero River. This region sits over 2,500 feet above sea level and is well known for its local clone of the Tempranillo grape – tinto fino, best compared to Cabernet Sauvignon of Napa Valley. They produce wines that are big, bold and made to age, wines that are a true expression of terroir and an incredible wine pairing with roast lamb and pork – some amazing local dishes.
The first day in the Ribera del Duero region started with castanet dancers in the courtyard of the home of Antonio Dias Martin, owner and winemaker of Bodegas Martin Berdugo, a wonderful home prepared lunch and tasting of their 2016 Rosado and wonderful line of Tempranillo wines (2015 Barrica, 2014 Crianza, 2011 Cosecha) and then off to tour the vineyard and winery. Where else can you sit with the owner and winemaker in his own home and have a history lesson on the events leading to the winery as it is today. Then to the wine cellars of Casado Alvides with a beautiful sunset in the vineyards and an amazing wine tasting in their 17th century wine cellar (2015 Alvides Roble, 2014 Alvides Crianza, 2015 Alvides Vendimia Seleccionada). The day ended after 1am with a private dinner hosted by the owner of Bodegas Neo Javier Ajenjo. Not only does he make wine but was our chef, creating a wonderful menu paired with live music, yes, each dish was paired with live music! Of course there was plenty of wine, maybe 18 different wines including two wonderful wines from Neo, 2011 Neo Punta Escencia and 2012 Neo Red Wine. The nightcap was a gin and tonic made with what else, Neo Dry Gin.
What I loved the most were the wine tastings and chef prepared lunches hosted by a winery. The first one was Valtravieso (my 2nd and 3rd were in the Rueda region, stay tuned for those). The tour started in the vineyards and we all got to harvest some Tempranillo by hand. Then to the wine tasting room with a view of the vineyards and the tasting table that included individual spit sinks with running water. We tasted the 2014 VT Tinta Fina, 2014 VT Vendimia, 2014 Gran Valtravieso, 2016 Cabernet & Merlot, and 2016 VT Tinta Fina. Afterwards we enjoyed an amazing 3-course lunch in the dining area. The braised short rib was prepared impeccably, no knife required and paired with a 2013 Valtravieso Crianza, just perfect.
Taller Arzuaga por Victor Gutierrez – Michelin Star restaurant, simply amazing! In my opinion this was the best dinner on this trip, make sure you don’t miss this one. But before you enjoy this culinary delight, spend some time at the Hotel and Spa Arzuaga and unwind with a nice massage and relax in the Jacuzzi or sauna. Then get ready for amazing dinner. The entrance to the restaurant is quite unique and fun. The lights surround you and the floor illuminates with each step you take. The Reserva Menu, a 9-course dinner, each dish presented beautifully and the flavors were incredible. The croaker with citrus and coconut liquid risotto, and the roasted pigeon and base of candela bread with raisins, were my favorites on the menu. The wonderful wines paired with dinner were a 2016 Rosae Arzuaga, 2016 FanD. Oro Chardonnay, 2014 Arzuaga Crianza and 2014 Pago Florentino. This dinner was definitely deserving of a Michelin Star.
After three days in Ribera del Duero, the next 2 days were spent in Rueda just west of the Ribera del Duero, also in the area of Castilla y Leon. Rueda sits at over 2,300 feet above sea level, with most of the wineries located in the province of Valladolid. The region is well known for the Verdejo grape, which is most similar to Sauvignon Blanc. With tropical fruits and citrus notes, the wines are very aromatic with wonderful acidity. It’s all about the acidity, which makes the wines from Rueda so versatile with so many foods.
Grupo Yllera – El Hilo de Ariadna – was one my favorite winery tours through the underground maze of tunnels and it was one of the more spectacular lunches I had on this trip. A beautiful underground cellar with dining areas and an impressive kitchen, along with wonderfully crafted wines and a lunch to die for, don’t miss this one. Lamb slow roasted for four hours, served in its savory juices, paired with Yllera wines, I needed to be carried out of the room I was so incredibly full and satisfied. (Cantosan Brut Cava, 2016, Yllera Sauvignon Blanc, 2016 Yllera Verdimia Nocturna, 2015 Verdejo Barrica)
My most memorable winery in the Rueda region was Ramon Bilbao. A tour by winemaker Sara Banuelos, a very professional and well planned out tour and presentation. I really enjoyed trying three of same vintage sauvignon blancs aged in three different oak barrels, American, French and Hungarian. Being able to taste side by side and to distinguish the variations in smell and taste. American very oaky, French sweet and vanilla notes, Hungarian a perfect combination of the two, my favorite. We followed this with a wonderful 5-course lunch. The roast lamb was so juicy and delicious I wanted to ask for a second helping. Overall just a superb lunch and wine tasting experience.
Let’s not forget about sightseeing, so much history in each town, and a visit to Castillo de la Mota (Castle on elevated hill) should be on your list of places to see. The castle is located in Medina del Campo, a province of Valladolid. It was built sometime in the 14th to 15th century; I looked at this castle with amazement and wondered how were they able to build this? It was a total step back into time and you can feel it, I had chills walking along the old castle walls.
I also walked the town of Valladolid, a quick visit into a 12th century church Santa Maria La Antigua. I walked through the Universidad de Valladolid (UVA), founded in 1241, one of the oldest universities in the world! The Plaza Mayor de Valladolid, the first great plaza in Spain used as a market. Church of San Benito, The Catedral de Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion, Santa Maria de Wamba Church, all so beautiful! Spend 3 to 4 hours walking the town, you will see the beauty and architectural detail that is beyond marvelous.
My one and only tapas dinner was at Los Zagales in the heart of Valladolid. This place is very popular and very crowded, get there early and be the first ones in and get ready for a unique selection of tapas beautifully presented, simply an exceptional tapas experience. They also have a good selection of local wines from Ribero del Duero.
As I reflect back on my 6 days in Spain, I can see the Tempranillo and Verdejo vineyards, old and young vines, land so harsh you sometimes wonder if you’re in a desert, flat land for miles, vineyards spotted on the landscape. You feel the heat of the day and coolness of evening and the smells of terroir. Everything you see and smell you taste in the wines. I will drink a Crianza or a Rueda Verdejo and always remember my time in Spain, plus the time spent at the wineries with the owners and winemakers, the tasting of so many wonderful wines, meeting so many lovely people, eating fantastic Spanish dishes, and exploring historical sights. I was very fortunate to have experienced this all. It’s definitely a trip I will never forget that I will talk about for the rest of my life, a trip that I would highly recommend to anyone who seeks a wine and food adventure of a lifetime.